Stringjig

[John]

Neue methode um eine Sehne herzustellen.
Kommt aus das Buch:Modern Archery by F.L.Bilson 1949
(Hoffentlich koent ihr englisch lesen)

You will need a piece of board (B) just about the same length as your bow. Fix a three inch peg of tin. dowel rod (P) in one end of the board and over this peg put the top loop of your old string. Stretch the old string along the board and put another 3in. peg (P) through the bottorn loop and fix this peg into the board. The pegs win now give y ou the exact length for your new strings.
On one peg tie loosely one end of the thread, then wind round from peg to peg until y ou have the required nuffiber of threads as above. Now undo the original end and tie it in a reef knot (K) to the end y ou have lef t. The knot shbuld be just at the peg.
y ou now have one continuous circle of threads running loosely round the pegs. With a pencil make a mark on each section of the threads at (M) one inch from each peg. Then slip the threads round until those four marks come opposite each other at the centre
of the board. The threads between these marks wi1l become the loops to go over the nocks of the bow, so some whipping or serving
(S) must be put on between the two marks on each section. It makes a better looking string if this serving is done with thin, coloured string or heavy thread. Red or green looks quite weIl.
The served parts are then slid back to the pegs and ad justed evenly round them. With the same string or thread as used far the serving, bind the two sections together for about two inches, thus forming the loops (L).
The string can now be taken off the pegs and it should be twisted a few times before it is put on the bow. As this type of string has fixed loops at both ends any adjustment needed must b("' done by twisting or untwisting. Normally an adjustment of abaut !in. can be effected in this way.
As there are only half the num ber of threads in the loops one would think that this would be a weak spot and lead to breaks, but experience has shown that breakages usually occur at the nocking point, and not at the loops.
All that remains ta complete the string is to rub it weIl with beeswax and then with a piece of leather doubled over, to melt the beeswax into the string. Aiso to put the serving on the middle for five or six inches using the same string or thread as for the other serving. Both these jobs are done with the bow braced.
Before shooting it will, of course, be necessary to mark the nocking point with silk thread ar in some other way, making it just thick enough to hold the arrow

Hallo Leute,
Die Zeichnung dazu kann ich nicht ins FC bringen,kann jemanden mir damit helfen?
Vielen Dank
John(Toxophilus)

[Taran]

[img]content/images/321_stringjigsm.jpg[/img]
Hier das Bild von John: Es lebe die holländisch-deutsche Zusammenarbeit.

Heutige Stringjigs (auf dt. Sehnengalgen - igitt!) sind etwas komplizierter, dafür lassen sich die Öhrchen m.E. aber etwas einfacher wickeln.

[Ravenheart]

...is doch die gute alte Endlossehne, oder nicht? Mag ja sein, dass die '49 in Käsland neu war, aber wat soll dat hier nu aussagen? Oder hab ich im Text ein Detail übersehen?

Rabe

[Taran]

Was weiß ich, seit wann die Schweizer die Endlossehne kennen - mich interessieren diese inzwischen schon historischen Beschreibungen schon.
Und jetzt erklär uns mal den sechsfachen flämischen Spleiß - das ist was Neues!:-)

[Netzwanze]

Sieht mir nicht anders aus, als die gute alte "Zwei Pfeile in der Erde" Variante. Was soll daran denn neu sein?

[Ravenheart]

@Taran: Kein Problem!

Als ich anfing, meine ersten Sehnen im flämischen Spleiß selber zu drehen, habe ich im Durchschitt 6 Versuche gebraucht, bis das zweite Öhrchen an der richtigen Stelle saß, musste also 5x wieder aufdröseln. Also sind alle meine alten Sehne durch sechsfachen flämischen Spleiß gemacht!

Rabe